Tamale Trail
The “Cotton Rush” of the turn of the last century brought all sorts of cultures and nationalities to the Mississippi Delta. One such group were the Mexicans who could make more picking cotton in the Delta than they could make anywhere else in the country. Of course they brought their food with them, and the “hot tamale” was introduced to the African-American laborers who worked beside them. That’s one theory, anyway. Other theories suggest that tamale recipes were brought back from the Mexican-American War, or that the Native Americans had been making tamales all along. However they got here, we’re glad they did!
At any rate, the popularity of the tamale took off because of their portability, affordability, and full flavor.
You may ask yourself how the Mexican tamale is different from the Delta tamale. According to the Southern Foodways Alliance, the Delta tamale differs in that, “Tamales from the Mississippi Delta are smaller than Latin-style tamales, are simmered instead of steamed, have a gritty texture from the use of corn meal instead of corn flour, have considerably more spice, and are usually served with juice that is the byproduct of simmering.”
There are dozens of great places to try the different varieties of Delta Tamales (some places even deep fry them) throughout the region and we’re going to name some of them below. And if you’re really, really into tamales, you don’t want to miss the Delta Hot Tamale Festival which takes place in Greenville every October
White Front Cafe, Rosedale, Mississippi
Off the beaten track - in the historic river town of Rosedale, Mississippi - you’ll find the White Front Cafe in a little white building on the Great River Road (also known as Highway 1 or Main Street), which doubles as the main drag for the town. In business for over 50 years, the White Front Cafe serves only one thing: tamales. Made from beef brisket and corn meal with a secret blend of spices, these tamales are boiled rather than steamed, which allows the flavors from the filling to permeate through the tamale. It also makes the tamales easy to spread on saltine crackers. For your drink, ask Ms Barabara for an ice-cold RC cola from the fridge. If you’re looking for the best tamales in the Delta, this is one place that you must try.
Airport Grocery, Cleveland, Mississippi
Located in the charming Delta town of Cleveland, Mississippi, Airport Grocery has made a name for itself serving some of the best food in the Delta in a unique atmosphere. While they’re also known for having one of the best hamburgers in Mississippi, Airport Grocery has made a name for itself with its generous portions of tamales - a favorite of both locals and tourists. Add the delicious tamales to a laid back atmosphere with a full bar and pool tables and smiling waitresses and you’ll find the Airport Grocery is one of the best tamale experiences in Mississippi.
Doe’s Eat Place, Greenville, Mississippi
No tamale list would be complete without a mention of Doe’s Eat Place in nearby Greenville. This casual, relaxed restaurant has been a mainstay of Mississippi Delta dining for years. In addition to their famous tamales, Doe’s is also known for its oven broiled steaks that attract diners from all over the region.
Hot Tamale Heaven, Greenville, Mississippi
Another Delta hot tamale mainstay is Hot Tamale Heaven in Greenville. Although the restaurant is somewhat contemporary, the tamales, as the name implies, are out of this world and have won or placed in a number of national and international tamale competitions. In addition to tamales, the restaurant also serves hot wings and bbq, and are quickly becoming famous for their popular tamale pie.
The Original Solly’s Hot Tamales, Vicksburg, Mississippi
The historic town of Vicksburg, down in Mississippi’s lower Delta region, is the home of world-famous Solly’s Hot Tamales. In business for decades, the tamale shop has served generations of Mississipians and those living across the river in Louisiana. Their tamales are divine, but are not the only thing on the menu. The frito pie is definitely worth a taste, too!
Abe’s BBQ, Clarksdale, Mississippi
Back up in Clarksdale is another famous tamale shop: Abe’s BBQ. With its original 1950’s vibe, consistent 4-star reviews on Yelp and TripAdvisor, and unique menu, Abe’s is one of those places that people will ask about when you’ve told them you’ve been to the Delta. And tamales are only a part of the menu. The BBQ is supposed to be some of the best BBQ you’ll find anywhere south of Memphis, and the chili-cheese burgers are excellent.
Hick’s Famous Tamales, Clarksdale, Mississippi
Another Clarksdale tamale favorite is Hick’s Famous Tamales. Eugene Hicks, the proprietor and head tamale maker has been making tamales since he learned the art back in the 1960s when he was just 16 years old, getting his first recipe from an old man selling tamales on the street. Over the years, Hicks has expanded his offerings to include BBQ, rib tips, and more.
Ervin’s Hot Tamales, Sledge, Mississippi
Just 30 minutes north of Clarksdale is the very small (population: 368) town of Sledge, Mississippi. Not only is Sledge the birthplace of country music star, Charlie Pride, it is also the home of Ervin’s Hot Tamales. Louis Ervin, who started the company back in 1966 allegedly paid $1,000 for the recipe for the tamales and it must have been a good recipe because the tamales are now famous. These tamales, unlike many others, are wrapped in parchment paper rather than corn husks, making them a little less messy to eat with no compromise to the flavor.
Scott’s Hot Tamales, Greenville, Mississippi
It’s a little place, no bigger than a snowcone shack, but the tamales made here have been featured in Southern Living and a host of other lifestyle publications. In business since the 1950’s, Scott’s Hot Tamales has become a Mississippi Delta tradition. And if you can’t make it Greenville during your trip to the Delta, no worries, because Scott’s will ship to you!
Ground Zero Blues Club, Clarksdale, Mississippi
One place where you must have some tamales is Morgan Freeman’s very own juke joint in Clarksdale, Mississippi. Located about 30 minutes north of Cleveland, Ground Zero not only has southern pub grub staples like BBQ nachos, fried green tomatoes, and tamales on the list, they also offer blues concerts many nights of the week and on any given night, you’ll be drinking and eating with people from all over the world. And it’s not uncommon to see Mr. Freeman himself enjoying a night at Ground Zero.
